Three Good Stops

Nashville to Gatlinburg: Three Good Stops on the Way to the Smokies

Cummins Falls State Park, near Cookeville
Cummins Falls State Park, near CookevillePhoto: Brenton Rogers from Cumberland Gap, TN · CC BY 2.0 · via Wikimedia Commons
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About 215 miles of I-40 from Music City to the mountains, and most people drive it straight into a two-hour crawl through Pigeon Forge. Here is how we do it instead: a waterfall you wade to on the Cumberland Plateau, a gold ball from a World's Fair in downtown Knoxville, and the quiet back door into the national park along the Little River.

The interstate part of this trip is simple: I-40 east for 180 miles, up onto the Cumberland Plateau past Cookeville and Crossville and down the other side into the Tennessee Valley. Just past Crossville you cross from Central into Eastern time, so a trip that leaves Nashville at 8 and drives for three and a half hours arrives at 12:30 on the clock and 1:30 in Gatlinburg. Plan lunch and check-in times around that, not around the drive.

The part that matters is the last thirty miles. The obvious route leaves I-40 at exit 407 and runs down TN-66 and US-441 through Sevierville and Pigeon Forge — a six-lane strip of dinner shows, go-karts and traffic lights that, on a summer or October weekend, turns twenty-five minutes into ninety. The better way, and the one we use here, leaves the interstate in Knoxville, runs south through Maryville to the small town of Townsend, and then follows the Little River through the national park into Gatlinburg from the other side. It adds about 25 miles and it is the best 25 miles of the trip.

One thing to sort before you go: Great Smoky Mountains National Park is free to enter, but any car parked in the park for more than fifteen minutes needs a parking tag — $5 for a day, $15 for a week, bought online or at the visitor centers. Buy the weekly one before you leave Nashville if you are staying more than a night; rangers do check.

Stop 1 — Cummins Falls State Park, near Cookeville

Mile 70 · 15 minutes north of I-40 · 1 to 3 hours

An hour out of Nashville the interstate climbs onto the plateau, and fifteen minutes up a county road from the Cookeville exits the Blackburn Fork drops 75 feet over a staircase of limestone ledges into a deep, cold pool. It was a family swimming hole for a hundred years before the state bought it in 2011, and it still feels like one — a wide, stepped waterfall you can sit in rather than just look at.

There are two ways to see it. The overlook trail is an easy walk through the woods to a view from the rim and needs nothing but the parking lot. Getting down to the pool means scrambling into the gorge and wading upstream over slick rock, and that requires a gorge access permit bought online in advance — numbers are capped each day and summer weekends sell out. Wear water shoes, not sandals, and take the closure warnings seriously: the gorge floods fast after rain upstream and the park shuts it when the creek rises.

Why we put it first: it is the one genuinely wild thing on this interstate, it is best in the morning before the heat and the crowds, and getting wet at hour one of a three-hour drive is a much better idea than getting wet at hour three.

Stop 2 — World's Fair Park and Market Square, Knoxville

Sunsphere, World's Fair Park, Knoxville
Sunsphere, World's Fair Park, KnoxvillePhoto: Ɱ · CC BY-SA 4.0 · via Wikimedia Commons

Mile 178 · 5 minutes off I-40 downtown · 1 to 2 hours

Knoxville is where the plateau ends and the mountains first show up on the horizon, and its downtown is five minutes from the interstate. The landmark is the Sunsphere, a 266-foot steel tower topped by a gold glass ball, built for the 1982 World's Fair and left behind when everything else was packed up. Its observation level is free, and on a clear day you can see the Smokies you are about to drive into.

The fair site below it is now a long lawn with a stream and splash fountains — a good place to let children run for half an hour. Then walk ten minutes up to Market Square, a pedestrian square of nineteenth-century brick storefronts with patio tables, a farmers market on Wednesdays and Saturdays in season, and the best choice of lunch between Nashville and the park. Gay Street, one block over, has the restored Tennessee Theatre and most of the coffee.

With the time change, you will likely be here right around lunchtime. Eat here: the food in Gatlinburg is mostly pancakes and fudge, and you will get enough of both.

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Stop 3 — Townsend and Little River Road

The Sinks, Little River Road
The Sinks, Little River RoadPhoto: P. Hughes · CC BY-SA 4.0 · via Wikimedia Commons

Mile 215 · on the route · 1 to 2 hours

Townsend calls itself "the peaceful side of the Smokies" and it earns it: a valley of hayfields and cabins with one main road, no neon, and the mountains standing straight up at the end of it. Stop at the Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center if you want the history of the people who lived in these hollows before the park, or walk down to the river at the Townsend Wye, where the Little River comes out of the park into a broad, clear swimming hole that local families have used for generations.

Then drive into the park on Little River Road, eighteen miles of two-lane at 35 mph following the river upstream through the woods to the Sugarlands Visitor Center. About twelve miles in, pull off at The Sinks, where the whole river pours over a ledge and churns through a rock channel under the road bridge — two minutes from the car and one of the most photographed spots in the park. Look, do not swim: the currents here have drowned people who knew the river. Meigs Falls is visible from the road a mile further on.

At Sugarlands, turn left and you are in Gatlinburg in two miles — having entered from the national park end, without a single traffic light in Pigeon Forge.

Arriving in Gatlinburg

Park once and walk, because the Parkway through town moves at walking pace anyway. The main attractions — the SkyBridge, the long pedestrian suspension bridge over the valley, Ripley's Aquarium and the mountain coasters — sell timed entries, and in October and summer the good slots go first, so book the Gatlinburg SkyBridge, aquarium and attraction tickets ahead. For the park itself, go early: Newfound Gap Road to the North Carolina line and the Laurel Falls and Alum Cave trailheads fill their lots by 9am on any nice weekend.

How we would time it

Leave Nashville at 7:30 Central. Cummins Falls at 8:45 while it is quiet, back on I-40 by 10:30, into Knoxville about 1pm Eastern for lunch on Market Square and the Sunsphere. Townsend at 3, The Sinks around 4, and into Gatlinburg by 5 — before the evening crowds, with daylight left to walk the town. Coming home, reverse it, or take I-40 straight back and gain the hour.

Booking the rest of it

If you are flying in rather than starting from home, Nashville usually has more flights and cheaper cars than Knoxville's airport, and a car you can drive on mountain roads matters more than the badge. Compare EconomyBookings and GetRentacar, and check the mileage allowance if you plan to drive the park roads every day. Fill up in Knoxville or Maryville: gas in Gatlinburg costs noticeably more, and there are no stations inside the park.

The three stops on a map

Stops in driving order. Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors.

How far is Nashville to Gatlinburg and how long does it take?
About 215 miles and 3 hr 30 min of driving on I-40 east, TN-66 and US-441. Taking the quieter route through Knoxville, Townsend and Little River Road is about 240 miles and 4 hr 15 min. Either way you lose an hour crossing into Eastern time.

Is there a time change between Nashville and Gatlinburg?
Yes. Nashville is on Central time and Gatlinburg is on Eastern. The line is on I-40 just east of Crossville, so you lose an hour driving east and gain it back coming home.

What are the best stops between Nashville and Gatlinburg?
Cummins Falls State Park near Cookeville at mile 70, a 75-foot stepped waterfall you can wade to with a permit; World's Fair Park, the free Sunsphere and Market Square in Knoxville at mile 178; and Townsend and The Sinks on Little River Road on the way into the national park.

How do you avoid Pigeon Forge traffic on the way to Gatlinburg?
Skip exit 407. Leave I-40 in Knoxville, take US-129 and US-321 through Maryville to Townsend, then Little River Road through Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the Sugarlands Visitor Center, two miles from Gatlinburg. It adds about 25 miles and no traffic lights.

Do you need to pay to enter the Smokies from Gatlinburg?
Entry is free, but a parking tag is required for any car parked in the park more than fifteen minutes — $5 a day or $15 a week, bought online or at a visitor center.

Now let us do this for your drive

Every stop above is one we would take ourselves — but it is our day, not yours. Change the departure time, the driving limit, the dog in the back seat, the EV that needs a charger every 200 miles, and the right stops change with it. That is the whole thing we built: you tell us the trip, we name the three good stops, with the drive math already done.

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